ensp – Page 2 – The Bakehouse

Opsie…it’s been a while

Posted on August 24, 2017November 22, 2017 by Bee Stewart

‘Opsie…it’s been a while’ was originally published on bee-bakes.com, December 8, 2014

So it’s been a while since I last updated. I knew this would happen. I’m not one of these blog writers who can just pump out a few lines and be done with it. Once I start, it just all has to come out and keeps going…then I have to edit, then I don’t like the editing, then other people start editing and…well, you get the gist. However, I will do my best to update on the last month.

Now where did I leave off…oh wow, week four… Ok. So after week four came Week Five (of course)—Petite Fours. This included ridiculously large range of tiny tasty things like:

multiple macarons, with a multitude of flavours like lime and basil, salted caramel and raspberry and poppy. (None of the macarons failed even though everyone acts like they’re the killer bees of the patisserie world)
Tiny little tasty orange cakes and passion fruit cakes
Something called a ‘brownie’ that was nothing like any brownie I’ve met before. Some kind of chocolatey-nutty goodness wedged together with caramel goodness
Choux filled with delicious flavours
Financiers
Biscuit/cakes with mousse toppings
Sablé Breton biscuits topped with more flavours
Smiley biscuits joined with home-made ‘Nutella’
etc

Then came Week 6—Confectionery Week

This included:

Tempering chocolate (which nearly broke me) for bon bons with various fillings and toppings
Truffles
Pâte de fruits with real fruits. Sweet, but tasty
Praline Roses (yay! Go Lyon!)
Nougat (it literally broke my tooth and sent me to the village dentist)
Pâte de guimauve with aromas and with fruit purée (i.e. marshmallow which, in my opinion should not be piped)

Week 6 also included a trip out of the asylum, I mean school. We ventured down south to the HQ of Valrohna Chocolate, a famous chocolate brand here in France. There we visited the chocolate museum and learnt all about where chocolate comes from and the process from the growers to the consumer. We also took part in a chocolate tasting session and learnt all the lingo for describing the flavours. Think wine tasting, only with chocolate instead… Speaking of wine, after lunch at a quirky local restaurant, we ventured out into the pouring rain for a visit to the winery of M.Chapoutier, Tain-l’Hermitage. Unfortunately, due to the disastrous weather, we could only do the wine tasting session and browse the boutique before heading back to school—no visit to the vineyard. Although I’m not much of a drinker, the winery was lovely, the tasting interesting and I found out that they have several vineyards in Australia!

Ice cream! My favourite thing!

So, next was Week 7 and ice cream. What we made:

Sorbets: citron (lemon), ananas (pineapple), fraise (strawberry), myrtilles (blueberry) and framboise (raspberry)
Glaces (ice cream): vanille, chocolat and noisette (hazelnut)
various cake and meringue inserts and more macarons (which also all worked)

What we did with them:

scooped out fruit and piped in sorbets for an interesting presentation
made Vacherin fraise-vanille (a strawberry and vanilla ice cream cake with meringue inserts and sides
made Velaya — with cassis (black currant) sorbet and a Verveine du Velay liqueur mousse for a local touch
then made Omelette norvégienne (aka Baked Alaska)
and Nougat glacé moderne. Nougat ice cream and raspberry sorbet with a cakey base and decorative pink macarons.

It just so happened that Nick was visiting at the end of the week, so of course, I cleaned out the freezer back at the apartment and fitted in as many ice cream cakes as I could!

Will catch up on more later—we had our mid-term exam today and it’s well past my sleeping time.

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One month down

Posted on August 24, 2017August 24, 2017 by Bee Stewart

‘One month down’ was first published on bee-bakes.com, October 27, 2014

Week Four has come and gone and this means that I’ve already been here for one month! It’s actually quite hard to believe that it’s gone so quickly.

The theme for Week Four was Classic Entremets at ENSP and we had three extra people join us for the duration. This proved to be interesting as space in the lab was tight, dish washing was slower and we had to deal with new personalities. A larger-than-life character, who thought she knew everything, accompanied us for the week. Her constant belief that she knew it all proved a beneficial ‘team building’ exercise for us as we left class gossiping about her appalling behaviour and feeling bad for the Chef who had to deal with her. We’re all here to learn; what’s the point in coming if you think you already know everything?!

For those not in the know, an entremet was traditionally a dish served between the principal courses of a meal or it was a dessert. Now, in relation to modern pâtisserie, it refers to cakes, luxurious in nature, with multiple layers of mousse and sponge offering different textures and flavours. They attempt to delight the eye as much as the palate with glazes, embellishments and curls of chocolate.

On the menu for Week Four were:
Moka, Succès, Charlotte aux poires, Opéra, Framboisier and La Forêt Noire.

The Moka is a classic French cake of light sponge soaked in coffee syrup and layered with a type of coffee butter cream and it almost broke me. I could not for the life of me get the lines straight for the decoration on the top! I made attempt after attempt and just couldn’t get it right at the edges. After all the stress it dawned on me that it was for nothing as we had to cover the edges with piping anyway. Don’t get me started with the piping failures, either. Then, later in the week as we took them out from the fridge to take home, I found that someone had mashed one side of the piping on my cake that had taken me so long to get right! Not happy Jan.

The Succès was more of a success! This is another chocolaty cake, more like a tart, that’s layered with a type of almond sponge and ganache. In the end we poured a thick chocolate glaze over the top which you only get a few seconds to even out before it starts to set. This, I’m excited to say, I almost got perfect! I just stopped a wee bit too early when spreading the glaze, but otherwise I was so happy with the result. We then piped the name of the cake onto the cake and made little ionic style scrolls as decorations. I added my little bee, much to Chef’s disapproval—it’s not very beautiful!

Charlotte aux poires was next on the list and one of my favourites from the week due to it being fruity. We piped a lines of sponge fingers to wrap the cake in, and then layered it with syrup soaked sponge and crème with pears. Topped it with several pear halves et voilà: instant deliciousness!

Actually, the next three were also delicious. The Opéra, with its multiple layers of chocolate and creamy goodness, was going so well that I was getting excited about the results until I attempted to remove it from the baking paper and the entire bottom layer of sponge didn’t move along with the rest of the cake…I was the only person in the class that this happened to and Chef said he’d never seen it happen before. Oh, yay, I was the first. Cue ‘there, there’ arm patting from Chef as I stormed off to the blast freezer to see if I could save the rest of the cake by freezing it off the baking paper. Oh well, there were lots of tasty off-cuts to be had!

Speaking of tasty off-cuts, the Framboisier provided many of these. This was exciting to make, one because it’s with raspberries, which I love, and two because it’s very visually engaging. We made a two-toned patterned sponge—a bright pink and creamy coloured sponge in a ‘chevron’ stripe for me. This sponge is then wrapped around the cake which is filled and layered with sponge, crème and raspberries. Decorated with raspberries and white chocolate, the effect is visually captivating. Mine turned out fairly well, aside from my uselessness at cutting things straight, and for once mine wasn’t the one that entered disaster cake levels. The aforementioned class know-it-all dropped her tray of sponge on top of another person’s tray, mashing the design and then failed to apologise or even acknowledge what she’d done! As we discussed later on, encountering people like this in the course will only help us when we have to face work in the real world.

Last on the list was La Forêt Noire, i.e. Black Forest Cake. A hot favourite when I was growing up in Australia, I was excited to make this retro cake with its mix of chocolate mousse and tart cherries. We layered the chocolate sponge with the mousse, lots of fruit and then enveloped it in cream. During the demonstration, Chef couldn’t find his cake to show us how to pipe the cream so as a joke I said ‘Oh look! Here’s one that looks good” (indicating my cake) and he decorated it for the demo…I think he felt sorry for me after the Opéra debacle! Afterwards, his cake was found and I got to decorate a smoother version of the cake! It didn’t help—I still need to improve my piping!

One month down, four to go.

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Sculpting in fruit

Posted on August 19, 2017August 23, 2017 by Bee Stewart

‘Sculpting in fruit’ was first published on bee-bakes.com, October 6, 2014

Friday turned out to be one of the best, funniest and worst days in the lab so far. We made the most amazing things—we sculpted with fruit! Firstly, we made a Tarte aux Pommes which is another classic French tart. It consists of a pastry base covered with apple compote and layered with slice after slice of thinly cut apples. This is a feat in itself. Each piece needs to be around 2mm thick—thinner and it falls apart; thicker and breaks on the curves. I somehow managed to cut all the apples the right thickness and did a pretty good job of layering them the correct way. We were all foiled by Chef though, who was appalled what happened to them in the oven (they looked ok to us) and got them out of sight when we weren’t looking. Apparently they were burnt and soggy? Anyway, on burning things he has a habit of coming and turning up my stove when I’m cooking and it’s twice resulted in me burning things—bad Chef. The last time it was with my apple compote and luckily I got the apples out of the pan before they actually burnt, and then he demanded “who’s burning something”. To which I replied “That would be me, because someone turned up my apples” and I eye-balled him! Opsie, supposed I should watch myself in preparation for the real world!

Next we made Tarte Multifruits—oh my yum. This is yet another classic and one which we made with a tasty Sablé Breton base (delicious and biscuity), a touch of crème pâtissière and multiple fruits stacked like a sculpture on top, then glazed to glossy perfection. Amazing. Apparently these days it’s the fashion to have the fruit arranged in abstract forms with some ‘height’, no sign of the crème pâtissière and no sign of symmetry. Therefore it wasn’t appreciated that I used the kiwifruit as a type of art deco scallop border with a chaos of fruit sticking up from behind. Cue head shaking from Chef. Apparently he didn’t like anyone’s…oh well the fruit stacking resulted in much hilarity so it was all good.

We had our first ‘buffet’ display for the course which was exciting. We displayed all of the pieces that had made it to the end of the week on one of the benches and had our pictures taken. It was great to see everyone’s cakes all lined up—so colourful and amazing to see some of what we’d achieved in one week.

The bad bit was that we received our grades. I’m not happy with my grade, but it’s not that bad. I’m more annoyed with myself as many of the things I’ve made before and I think I should have done better. I probably should have asked why I got that score, but I think it could be that I’ve been a bit slow, so this week I need to up my game! On the upside, I got told to continue to be funny…I think I’ve become some kind of class clown. It could have something to do with be pretending to be the dying orange during the demonstration of peler à vif which sounded like ‘peel alive’ to another girl and me, but I think actually translates to ‘peel quickly’. The Russian girls in the class are going to have amusing demonstration videos to play back when they go home.

Aside from the lab classes we had our first French language lesson. I didn’t really know what to expect from the class as I wasn’t sure what level the other students would be at. However, it turns out that most of the class speak at least the basics, with only a couple of the girls speaking nothing at all. The professor said that ours is the first international class that she’s been able to speak in French in and that normally it takes the entire lesson for the class to introduce themselves! She’s recommending that we speak French in the labs, which I’d quite like as I need to practice. Looking forward to a class in a few weeks where she will take us to the local market to tell us about the produce.

On to the weekend it was Oktoberfest in the Village. One of my fellow students was supposed to go to Oktoberfest on the weekend, but because French class was shifted to Friday she couldn’t make it. So we had it here! A few of us cooked German sausages, sauerkraut and potatoes at my place and afterwards we went to the one bar that opens after about 21h. It was fun and we had a good laugh, but on Sunday when I went out I found a note stuck to the front door saying, in Google translated English, “make no noise after 22h”—we had left at 22:30 and laughed on the way down the stairs…Tonight when I came home from general classes it had been removed and stuck to the internal glass door, just in case I hadn’t seen it.

Welcome to French village life.

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One week in the village

Posted on August 19, 2017August 24, 2017 by Bee Stewart

‘One week in the village’ was first published on bee-bakes.com, October 2, 2014

It’s one week today since I arrived at ENSP, my new school! I’m feeling slightly broken and sleepy, but happy, too. Here’s a run-down on things as they happened since I last updated.

I spent a fair bit of Saturday trying to make the apartment more homely and then spent the rest of it out with people from school. We all arranged to meet up and try ‘bar-hopping’, as one of the hopeful youngsters called it. But what it really meant was checking out the local café-bars (about two) and then somehow getting roped into walking 60kms (ok, slight exaggeration) to some random destination to go to a nightclub with an English woman and three crazy Russian and Ukrainian girls. Not sure how this happened, but it turned out to be hilarious, with me having a moment of panic, too late, along the lines of what on Earth am I doing here, I’m old enough to be their mothers (ok, another slight exaggeration…slight).

On Sunday three of us decided to go for a wander around the village and we ran into the group of bakers we arrived with. So about eight of us ended up meandering far out into the countryside in search of an equestrian club…? We enjoyed the views along the way and found a farm selling fresh milk products and eggs. We followed this up by doing what we were told on Orientation Day and ‘researching’ at one of the local pâtisseries. On Monday it was preparation for the week ahead. This included resting, ironing clothes, food shopping for the week and catching up with some of the others for a sneaky kebab…about the only take-away in town! Then it was early to bed in order to wake at 04:30am.

I awoke at 03:45am.

After checking a dozen times to see if I had everything I should have, I arrived at school half an hour early and into class at 05:45am—we all did. Chef told us we didn’t need to get there that early. I guess we were all a bit excited—who knew how long it would take to walk in the morning!

After a very detailed introduction to the kitchen and facilities and another nightmare, I mean ‘get to know you session’, we started on our lessons. Just like that and we were making things! I piped something on my first day! Here’s a run-down of what we did in our first seven hours:

Made pastry for a Tarte au flan (a basic, but tasty custard tart).
Made crème pâtissière for the flan (which I would have to be about the only person who caught it on the bottom of the pan).
Filled and baked the flan.
Made another type pastry for Barquette aux Marrons and Dôme Ganache.
Made an almond filling, a chestnut filling and dark chocolate ganache. Filled, baked and topped Barquette aux Marrons and Dômes Ganache.

I think that was it? Cue panic to get the kitchen cleaned for the next group without succeeding.

Day two was so much better in the kitchen. I felt like we understood how it all should work and we seemed to achieve so much more in the same time. I arrived 10mins early, but unfortunately so did the 100 or so French CAP students—not good in the locker rooms. However, I had my proper uniform so I felt in the baking mood in my houndstooth trousers and giant clown chef jacket.

We glazed our flan, made two more types of pastry, another basic tart, Tarte alsacienne (an apple tart with an eggy-custardy filling), topped and dipped the Dômes Ganache in chocolate (quite proud of mine), topped an dipped the Barquette aux Marrons in sticky fondant (very tricky) and we managed to clean the kitchen on time! We also got to view the professional student’s work—amazing. I can only hope that one day I’ll be able to make things like that.

Today it was choux pastry and more crème pâtissière with Éclairs à la vanille and chouquettes on the menu (the latter being for breakfast). In the afternoon we had our first non-lab class of Food Science. This class is guaranteed to make us never want to eat anything again, especially eggs, for fear of bad micro-organisms. I also found out that if I want to keep my own chickens and use their eggs I will have to get a business licence for the eggs…so soon I could be operating Bee Bakes and Bee’s Chickens Lay…

So, there we have it—one week of village life down, 21 to go!

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O-Day

Posted on August 19, 2017August 23, 2017 by Bee Stewart

‘O-Day’ was first published on bee-bakes.com on September 29, 2014

Today is Monday. It’s the fifth night at my humble abode, in a tiny village of Yssingeaux in the middle of France. So much has happened since taking the bus from Lyon on Thursday afternoon, it’s almost hard to remember.

Thursday was when it really hit that I’m actually doing this. Nick had arranged for a fancy lunch for the two of us, prior to taking the bus, and as I was getting ready for lunch I suddenly felt a nervous sickness in the pit of my stomach and didn’t think I could go through with lunch! The last time this happened was when we got married in Australia. Half way through the reception dinner, as I was tucking into green beans soaked in lemon olive oil and topped with parmesan cheese, I suddenly remembered that we had to dance the Charleston as a surprise for our wedding guests after dinner and I couldn’t eat anything else.
This time, however, I was determined not to let it stop me and so we ate in style at the new Paul Bocuse restaurant that has opened in our quartier, Monplaisir. Housed in a beautifully redecorated belle villa bourgeoise, the Marguerite Restaurant seemed like a fitting farewell before heading off on my culinary adventure.

In the afternoon, after saying goodbye to our hysterical furball, Fortie, (I think he knew I was leaving) Nick drove me to the airport to meet up with the rest of the students. They were easy to spot. Waiting in the grand hall for the airport train station was a group of people from all parts of the world, all guarding massive bags of luggage, ready for several months in a foreign country. After we realised there were people delayed thanks to Air France strikes, Nick waved goodbye and left me to get to know my new classmates. We eventually all boarded the bus to the château school a few hours late. Cue sleeping for several hours while being stuck in peak hour traffic.

Much later, we arrived at the school and were greeted by various members of staff while waiting for the Programs Manager who had shown Nick and me around the school in August. We were pre-warned that he is always late and after waiting for several ‘five more minutes’ he finally showed. Then it was off to a three course welcome dinner in the château restaurant (of course there is always dessert) and then shuttling us off to our new homes.

I got a place on my own! Yay! There’s room for Nick and Fortie to stay and it’s just off the centre ville. It’s just around the corner from a large square with fountains and apparently where the Thursday market is held. While it’s old, has ugly paint and wall paper, has some kind of water hammer issue and reminds me of uni accommodation in Ballarat, the location is so good and I have a view, over rooftops, to the mountains and the setting sun.

After a rough sleep due to waking up every 15 minutes to loud bangs from the water pipes of my neighbours downstairs, it was up to the château for Orientation Day! On Saturday I met up with a group of people from the course and we all realised that we couldn’t actually recall much of what happened on O-Day… It was one of the longest days ever, especially after the sleep issues. Starting at 8am we waited around for ‘five more minutes’ till everything was ready before entering the large teaching kitchen where we spent the rest of the day. Here’s what I remember:

– a constant supply of juice, hot coffee and tea and multiple pastries.
– trying on chef’s outfits to find the right size. Three chef’s jackets and two pairs of houndstooth chef trousers coming my way.
– going through and checking the Pâtisserie Tool Kit. That’s right—tool kit. Complete with a cute tool box. Whisks, spatulas of all shapes, the biggest knife, chocolate thermometer, things I don’t know how to use etc etc.
– ‘getting to know you’ session, otherwise known as ‘my nightmare’ session. Each student had to tell a little story about themselves and how they came to be at the course. I don’t even know if I made sense, but I got there in the end.
– lunch in the château with more dessert.
– visit from our main pastry chef. We discovered there were a few more things we needed for our kits, including a fork and a spoon…should have brought some from home.
– visit from the La Poste. Random, but informative for students from overseas needing bank accounts and mobile phones.
– class timetable! Oh my…first week is four days of 6am starts…interesting…
– too many questions.

After all that and a lot of talking, I was almost delirious. All I wanted to do was run off to the very far away supermarket and stock up on some basic supplies and go to sleep. And so I did.

More later!

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